It took far too long for me to finally put my cycling holiday plans into action. In the middle of the Corona pandemic, I first got on my bike for a holiday in 2020 (back then on the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path from Winterberg to DuisburgI was absolutely euphoric and wanted to experience that kind of holiday again as soon as possible. Well, as life would have it, I wasted three years before I finally managed it. But now I'll finally tell you about my second cycling holiday.
The first decision to make was where to go. Because of its proximity, my professional connection there, and because I had already planned to do it, the Römer-Lippe route was quickly chosen. Meanwhile, my colleague wanted to Jochen The tour can also be done by bike and has already been completed. first part about the preparation of his cycling trip on the Roman-Lippe route I wrote about it, but things moved a little slower for him too, and now I've actually beaten him to it. Now, I'm certainly no fan of history, let alone Romans, but spoiler alert: this very topic was the absolute highlight of this cycle path for me. But let's start from the beginning.
How to: Organizing a cycling trip
How do I even plan and organize a cycling holiday? I'll explain that to you in detail in my Ruhr Valley Cycle Path ArticleEspecially for newcomers, my step-by-step guide will certainly help with some decisions, such as the length of daily stages, whether to use a GPS or not, whether to choose a regular or e-bike (we're using both again, as we did on the Ruhr Valley Cycle Route), bike-friendly hotels, whether to travel by car or train, how to pack, etc. So feel free to read through it and come back to the article later. Experienced cycling tourists can simply continue reading now.
Various sections of the Roman-Lippe Route
On the Roman-Lippe Route, you have the choice between the main route (295 km) from Detmold to Xanten, the themed loops (184 km) in between, or a combination of both (479 km). At 12 points, you can leave the main route and embark on one of the loops, which focus on either water experiences or Roman culture.
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The Römer-Lippe-Route is marked, as with other cycle paths, with red and white bicycle signs. At points where different cycle routes intersect, you will also see the small red and blue Roman helmet. At each junction of a themed loop, you will find a small information panel about the route, and from this point on, the Roman helmet changes to either blue (water experience) or red (Roman culture). In the respective neighboring communities, you will also find larger information panels with useful tips about the respective location.
(Stage) planning is half the battle when it comes to vacation
The first step is always stage planning, and with the Römer-Lippe-Route, I often had to rearrange things. This route frequently alternates between urban and rural areas, and in the latter, there isn't always a wide selection of accommodations available. The daily cycling mileage also needs to be manageable, and I also need to allow plenty of time for breaks, meals, and sightseeing. Ideally... Order your free information package with host directory home or plan the stages digitally on your laptopI have 295 km to cover, so my final plan looks like this:
Day 1 (Arrival)
Take the train to Detmold, then cycle to the Hermann Monument (approx. 16 km)
Overnight stay at the Elisabeth Hotel
Day 2
Detmold to Paderborn (approx. 50 km)
Overnight stay at the Welcome Hotel
Day 3
Paderborn to Lippstadt (approx. 45 km)
Overnight stay at the Quality Hotel
Day 4
Lippstadt to Hamm (approx. 60 km)
Overnight stay at the Pier9 Tiny House Hotel
Day 5
Hamm to Selm (approx. 50 km)
Overnight stay at the An Hotel
Day 6
Selm to Schermbeck (approx. 60 km)
Overnight stay at Madison Green El Capitan
Day 7
Schermbeck to Xanten (approx. 45 km)
Overnight stay at the Hotel Nibelungen Hof
Day 8 (Departure)
Xanten to Bottrop (approx. 50 km)
I booked my accommodations in advance for this holiday as well, just to make sure that nothing interferes with my mileage plan and that I don't suddenly have to drive an extra 20 kilometers.
Arrival: Relaxed travel by train
A relaxed train journey? Including bicycles? Yes, it actually worked out perfectly. From Bottrop, we traveled to Detmold in about three hours with two changes. The trains weren't too crowded, we always had space for our bikes, and everything went smoothly. To avoid rush hour traffic, we didn't leave until early morning, so we arrived in Detmold before the afternoon rush hour – that was probably the key to our success.
It's better to travel with light luggage.
Before tackling our first, shorter leg to the Hermann Monument, we'll check into the hotel and settle into our room. We chose the Elisabeth Hotel not only for its central location, but primarily because it's an inclusive hotel for people with disabilities, something I'm happy to support. To make cycling a bit lighter, we'll leave most of our luggage at the hotel and begin our tour lighter.
The first stage on the Roman-Lippe Route: elevation gain and heat = a bad combination
It's a very hot day, but we have time, hardly any luggage, and can therefore comfortably tackle the challenging climb to the Hermann Monument. With the e-bike, the route is relaxed; without it, however, the temperatures make it the first real test for my companion on her regular bike, and I have to cheer her on and motivate her from time to time. The ascent is on a road, but we encounter very few cars, and it's easy to cycle.
Those who wish to avoid the elevation gain to get here can, incidentally, use the following service on weekends and public holidays during the cycling season: Tourist route 792 (with a bicycle trailer) take the more comfortable route.
Once you reach the top, you cycle directly towards the starting point of the Römer-Lippe-Route. This is where our cycling holiday officially begins, and to ensure we always know how many kilometers we've covered, we encounter steel signs along the entire route displaying the kilometer markers. This is also our first encounter with the Roman theme of the route: at the starting point, we're still at kilometer zero, but from now on, the kilometers will be indicated in Roman numerals. This immediately motivates us to first translate all the kilometer markers into our Arabic numerals and then check whether our result matches the small number in the upper right corner of the signs (surprisingly, this usually worked :D).
Off to Hermann!
Just a few more meters of elevation gain await us until we finally reach the Hermann Monument at 386 meters (phew, that's why the drive was so tiring!). It's absolutely impressive the first time you stand before or beneath it, as the Hermann Monument, at approximately 54 meters high, commemorates the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in 9 AD.
Speaking of battles, we haven't eaten since this morning and feel like we've been through one ourselves. So now we're heading back down to the town of Detmold to find something to eat. We'll be back down about 20 times faster than we were up... and we're still alive. 😀
The best thing about traveling: the culinary breaks
We opt for hearty schnitzels, where you can choose every component from the breading (including cornflakes, parmesan, almond, sesame) to the filling (including chicken, vegetables, feta cheese) to the sauce (including hollandaise, cream, bombay).
Detmold's historic city center is truly beautiful, with stunning half-timbered houses and historic buildings. People are sitting everywhere, enjoying the evening with friends.
When we arrive back at the hotel in the evening, the bike storage room is already quite full of bicycles, and we're happy to see so many like-minded people out and about. But first, it's off to bed so we're rested for our first long day of cycling.
The second stage on the Roman-Lippe route: More elevation gain!
Today the real adventure begins, and we have almost 50 kilometers ahead of us in perfect weather. We can expect idyllic landscapes, a significant elevation gain in a short distance, and an impressive natural monument.
The route climbs steadily, and we gain altitude over shorter, but sometimes longer, stretches. My e-bike easily handles even a 12,5% incline, but for my regular cyclist, this one hill becomes a real struggle, and he arrives at the top drenched in sweat in today's 30-degree heat.
We have now left Detmold and arrived in Horn-Bad Meinberg at kilometer 19. Here, one of the highlights of my trip awaits us.
Mystical natural monument
Even on the approach, this natural monument impresses with its sheer size. The Externsteine are a massive rock formation shrouded in myth. Before we delve into this mystical world, we can store our bags free of charge with a deposit (e.g., ID card). You can get the keys for the lockers at the information center, which also houses a small interactive exhibition (free admission) where you can learn, among other things, how the Externsteine were formed.
I discover a hanging chair on a huge tree and sit down in it. In the background, a man is playing medieval melodies on a flute, and I feel like I'm in another world.
The entire complex here is a unique and mystical world full of mysteries. On the Externsteine, for example, I find this small round window and in front of it a kind of altar on which small offerings lie. The rising point of the sun is said to shine through this opening at the summer solstice.
It's pleasantly empty up here, and I sit on a rock for quite a while, enjoying the view in the gentle breeze. I could sit here forever, but we have to move on. In total, we spent two hours exploring the grounds and the Externsteine themselves, so you should also allow at least an hour.
We're glad that we're now cycling through the forest, where we can escape the hot sun for a while. We're relieved to be descending the elevation we gained to reach the Externsteine.
The Lippe spring
Normally, when cycling along rivers, you always follow the route from the source to the mouth. The Römer-Lippe-Route, however, due to its Roman theme, begins at the Hermann Monument, and you only reach the source in Bad Lippspringe.
Is it more convenient to join the route later?
Some people consider joining the Römer-Lippe-Route after visiting the Externsteine, due to the elevation gain. This is certainly an option (especially for those with health issues), and the spring in Bad Lippspringe is a convenient alternative. However, I found both the Hermann Monument and especially the Externsteine so impressive that I would have regretted missing them on my trip, and I therefore strongly recommend that you don't miss these two sights.
Pa Pa Paderborn, that's where I lost my heart
We've now arrived in Paderborn, our destination for today. You can tell we're in a big city, and there's plenty to see: culture, shopping, and of course, the Pader River. The Pader originates from over 200 springs in the city center, and you cycle along its banks for quite a stretch.
With the beautiful weather we're having today, people are not only beside the Pader River, but also on it. However, this much-praised weather seems to be about to change. We'll grab a bite to eat in the city center and then head back to the hotel to finish our leg of the journey.
Third stage on the Roman-Lippe Route: Where is the sun???
Um, why is the sky so gray now? And it's cooler too… Never mind, the main thing is it's dry! We set off on our bikes and will soon be in Delbrück.
In Delbrück, we are once again transported back to the Romans. The Roman camp at Anreppen is one of the most important early Roman monuments in Germany.
Besides the small information hut, you can view the former military site by seeing the camp trenches and some camp roads.
Rain is a must-have on every cycling trip.
Even at the Roman camp, the increasingly dark clouds frightened us, and we quickly set off on our bikes to get away from the many fields. And then, the classic scenario: it started to rain heavily.
Nothing's working anymore. We get caught in such a heavy downpour that we're completely soaked within minutes. We didn't even have time to put on our rain gear. We find a small shelter by the side of the road, which we use to take off all our wet clothes and change into dry ones (how convenient it is to always have your luggage with you!). Then we put on our rain gear and can continue cycling in the lighter rain.
After rain comes sunshine
We've finally arrived at our destination for today, Lippstadt, and are rewarded for our perseverance in the rain with sunshine. During a short break in Grüner Winkel, we try to at least dry our jackets a little in the sun.
At the hotel we stay in a room which not only has a beautiful view of the large St. Mary's Church and the Lippe River with its mill wheel in the hotel's own beer garden, but whose window and railing we can also use perfectly for drying our clothes.
After a short stroll through this truly wonderful city, we went for a bite to eat (there are some great restaurants here, for example the Diva tavern; you absolutely must check out the upper floors, as there are many different cozy seating areas) and were then completely exhausted, so we headed back to the hotel quite early. Tomorrow will surely be a nicer day…
Fourth stage on the Roman-Lippe Route: Here comes the rain again
This can't be happening! It rained all night, and after a hearty and delicious breakfast, we're starting the day again in our rain gear. Tonight's weather is going to have a major impact on our trip…
Within the first few kilometers, we realize just how heavy the rain was last night. We pass sections where the road is flooded, and since it's still early, the barrier hasn't even been closed yet.
The Lippe River has a strong current and is brown with stirred-up mud. Since the weather is constantly changing between sun and rain today, our tour will now be accompanied by continuous checks of the rain radar.
We've now arrived in Lippetal and saw several observation points for the renaturalized nature reserves along the way. These viewpoints can be found at many points along the Römer-Lippe-Route, offering fantastic views of the surrounding nature. At Hovestadt Castle, we checked the weather radar again and decided to continue quickly to take a break from the rain at a café in the small village.
After the forced break in the rain, we cycle through fields in a very rural setting, and somehow this is the first time the route starts to feel like it's dragging on. Have we simply experienced too much already, have we cycled too many kilometers, is the weather getting to us? Perhaps a combination of everything? We don't know, and our motivation is waning.
Lippe ferry, glass elephant and Hindu temple
We've now arrived in Hamm, and thus in the Ruhr area. The heavy rain from last night is following us again, because our first Lippe ferry is closed. Oh no! That was the part I was most looking forward to, because you can usually cross the Lippe at four different points along the Roman-Lippe Route using small ferries.
These ferries are powered by you and your own muscle power, through chains, cranks, etc. Unfortunately, the current is too strong for the ferry today, but so you can see what such a ferry looks like, I've dug out an archive photo for you.
It's late afternoon, and the fact that Maxipark is about to close, in addition to the fact that I've already been here several times, is a convenient excuse for not being able to visit the glass elephant again (another archive photo). We also skipped the largest Hindu temple outside of India, since I've already been there. I was there several timesYou absolutely must go there; it's only a few hundred meters off the route and is signposted. The temple is open to visitors, and I've included a picture from the archives.
You see, we're completely exhausted, but hey:
It's halftime – motivation, please come back!
It's stopped raining, but everything's wet and we're fed up, so now it's just a matter of gritting our teeth and pushing through. Despite having reached the halfway mark (practically halfway), we're just going to keep pedaling and mindlessly cycle on.
But now comes the reward for our perseverance today and the power boost for our motivation. We reach our highlight overnight stop in the Pier 9 Tiny House Hotel.
A small house as a small reward
It was expected and has proven true: The tiny house in Hamm is truly our most extraordinary stop. Ten of these small houses, in different colors and shapes, stand on a small plot of land. Each tiny house has a specific theme (including a maritime beach house, a rustic forest cabin, a luxurious wellness retreat, and an industrial style) and is all individually and lovingly designed.
Since the "Lippe" house, which would have been perfect for our trip, was already booked, we're staying in the "Wupper" tonight. The little houses are real space savers, and besides a bathroom and a sofa area, we also have a small counter for sitting opposite the kitchenette.
The bed is located on the upper floor, and I have to admit that you shouldn't get up too quickly; you should raise your upper body carefully to avoid bumping your head. I think it's great that almost all the windows have permanently installed fly screens, so you can leave them open without worry.
The city center is a five-minute bike ride away, so I get us some sushi, which we eat at our little counter. Afterwards, we relax in the cozy outdoor lounge, enjoy a delicious drink and some snacks, and reflect on the rather tiring day.
Fifth stage on the Roman-Lippe Route: Welcome back, Sunshine
After a truly relaxing night, we drink a coffee on our small terrace, and then start the new, finally sunny, stage fully motivated.
From Hamm, the route runs almost parallel to the Lippe river along the Datteln-Hamm Canal to the small town of Werne, a cute little town with half-timbered houses, a market square and a graduation tower.
We then cycle on to Bergkamen, where we are reminded of the actual theme of our cycling trip. We arrive at the Roman Park in Bergkamen.
You'll automatically cycle past this spot and recognize the small park by the timber and earth wall. There are many more small Roman-themed areas to discover on the grounds; feel free to check out my videos for more information.
Further along the route, we repeatedly encounter thematic references to the Romans: information panels, relics by the roadside, and of course, the signs indicating our cycled kilometers.
While the water in the Rünthe marina in Bergkamen shines a brilliant blue, the Lippe River in Lünen once again shocks us with its muddy brown color. The water level is so high that we can't see the end of the cascading steps with their seating. We're approaching our destination for the day, Selm, and I'm especially looking forward to meeting an old friend there and having a drink with her.
Sixth stage on the Roman-Lippe Route: Today a change of pace from cycling.
Today we had something special planned, and this morning we were worried that the flooding would ruin our plans again. That stupid downpour on our second day really threw our whole schedule into chaos.
Our Lippe ferries today in Haltern am See and later in Dorsten are not running, just like the ferry two days ago in Hamm. Therefore, here are some archive photos so you can better visualize the ferries.
Our bikes are showing the mileage, so we top up the tires every now and then. We do this at Jupp's Adventure Beer Garden in Haltern am See, which you should definitely check out, regardless of the bike repair station. There's something to see in every corner: a pretzel vending machine, seating in gondolas and small huts, a model railway, and more.
The classic scenario: repair break
Okay, the flat tire wasn't the only problem, so we made a quick stop at the bike station in Haltern am See. The chain was creaking, the tire was bent, and since we still had a few kilometers to go, we decided to get it fixed. A friendly employee took care of our bike quickly, and then we happily continued on our way (a big thank you and much thanks again to the bike station). Now we realized even more than before that this little stop was absolutely necessary.
A few kilometers further on, our next cycling break awaits. We arrive at the LWL Roman Museum and stow all our bags and helmets so we can leisurely explore the museum. The exhibition becomes interactive via an app, and afterwards we head out to the outdoor area to climb the Roman construction site of Aliso.
On top of the lip, instead of always just beside it
Since we were unable to use three of the four ferries due to the heavy rain, we're taking a slightly different approach today to still get ONTO the Lippe River. We'll be kayaking from Dorsten to Schermbeck, our destination for today.
There are several tour operators along the Lippe River offering such trips, and we found one who kindly transported our bikes and luggage from our starting point to the take-out point while we were on our Lippe River tour. The weather is glorious, and the high water level isn't bothering us with our kayak for once.
The tour lasts about two hours, and the later it gets, the calmer the Lippe River becomes. The still water, the ever-lowering sun, and the surrounding tranquility are a reward and something truly special after the many kilometers of cycling. Our focus isn't on speed, but rather on savoring this beautiful moment. After this wonderful time, we cycle the short distance back to our hotel at a completely relaxed pace, happy with the day's experiences.
Seventh and final stage on the Römer-Lippe-Route: Final sprint!
We're feeling great and are really looking forward to the final leg. We start our tour in the small, cozy town of Schermbeck under bright sunshine and quickly reach Hünxe. I've been here many times before. historic district of Krudenburg, but never at times when the little music shop was open.
Well, what can I say? When an opportunity like this arises, we simply have to take a refreshing shandy break (double entendre?), no matter how late it is. So, cheers to this beautiful morning!
Wesel becomes more lively again, and after the market stalls have cleared the square, we sit down in the sun with an iced coffee overlooking the Willibrordi Cathedral.
After the Lippe River flows into the Rhine, we cross to the other side of the Rhine via a large bridge.
As lively as Wesel is in its city center, it is equally rural and natural in its outlying districts. On the way to Bislich Island, numerous photographers with telephoto lenses are already lined up to photograph the wildlife.
Asian water buffalo are currently wallowing in the mud here, and that seems to be something quite special. By the way, you can cycle around Bislich Island and find quiet spots and viewpoints where you can observe other animals.
Arriving in Xanten, we enjoyed the beautiful weather and ended the evening with a cocktail at the Plaza del Mar on the Xanten South Lake. Tonight we're staying at the Nibelungen Hof, and I highly recommend eating at the attached Vietnamese restaurant "PAPA MI"—it's so delicious!
During our meal, we realized we'd forgotten our obligatory final photo at the last kilometer marker. Since it's only a few kilometers away, we'll of course take it the next morning.
Day eight: Departure (why didn't we just take the train?! :D)
We were really motivated during the planning stages and decided to cycle home, because what are 50 kilometers after this whole tour?! But in the morning, things looked quite different, and we switched from the most scenic to the fastest route before even setting off… and that one dragged on forever. What on earth were we thinking, cycling another 50 kilometers home after so many days and nearly 300? In theory, it sounded easy, but in reality, we were kicking ourselves. The route wasn't scenic and mostly followed roads (we're definitely spoiled by the beautiful scenery on this cycling trip), and it just wouldn't end. After many hours and in a foul mood, we finally reached home, and then this happened: Our mood instantly shifted from "I'm fed up" to "Wow, what have we accomplished?! What have we seen and experienced?!" Euphoria and happiness washed over us, along with relief.
Conclusion: Do it! Don't just think about it, put it into action!
We both agree that this vacation was wonderful and still look back on it with that same feeling. For me, a cycling trip means adventure, activity, nature, and slowing down. A perfect combination of these qualities. On the Römer-Lippe-Route, I particularly enjoyed the major sights like the Hermann Monument and the Externsteine, but also the many beautiful landscapes and nature experiences. The route doesn't take you along the water as often as, for example, along the... Ruhr Valley Cycle Path (which is mostly due to the many nature reserves), but that's precisely what I found so appealing. It's not just 300 kilometers along the water, but also through many small villages, and I love cycling through them and seeing how people live. Every time, I'm overcome with a warm feeling of "ah, how lovely, the world is still alright here." The theme of the route really surprised me, as it runs like a common thread through the entire journey and is genuinely informative, even for people like me who aren't particularly interested in such things. The accompanying kilometer markers were fantastic, constantly reminding us of our progress. The highlight of the Römer-Lippe-Route is undoubtedly the Lippe ferries, even though we unfortunately couldn't use them. They provide variety and unique experiences.
I can only recommend that you hop on your bike and go on a cycling holiday! The Römer-Lippe-Route is perfect for this, as it offers a great mix of cycling and adventure.
