Allgäu or Ruhr area? A sporty gravel ride across the Ruhr hills.

27 May 2021

I admit, I too am a victim of marketing and this year I succumbed to the huge trend of Gravel Bikes Subjected to gravel. The merits and drawbacks of this type of bike are certainly debatable, but it's equally certain that these machines are incredibly fun on the nation's gravel roads. Light, agile, and fast – for me, the complete opposite of my e-bike, which I use for long, but more relaxed rides. My tour suggestion today takes you to the Ruhr Heights between Mülheim an der Ruhr and Essen-Werden. You don't necessarily need a gravel bike, but everyone should be aware that the surface can often be "a bit rough" and the tour is quite "sporty" without an e-bike.

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Fancy a little tour through the Allgäu region?

My colleague Pascal and I had actually expected typical April weather, despite it being the merry month of May. But let me tell you, we were lucky in the end and stayed dry, enjoying mostly perfect spring weather! For me, this tour is practically a loop through my "living room." Pascal, who is once again responsible for the fantastic photos in this article, is exploring this area for the first time and is quite surprised: "We're in the Allgäu region!" he exclaimed halfway through. And he's not entirely wrong, because the hills above the Ruhr River are indeed very gently rolling, offering stunning views, numerous fields, and even more elevation gain. The only thing missing was Käsespätzle (cheese spaetzle) at the end…

The starting point is Mülheim an der Ruhr.

The best place to start the tour is in the center of Mülheim an der Ruhr, where the pace is just right. A leisurely warm-up ride, the first climbs through the forest, then the more challenging section with its steep ascents, a culinary break at the ostrich farm, and finally a relaxed ride back. The main train station is easily accessible by train, and drivers will find ample parking on both sides of the Ruhr River directly on the Ruhr Cycle Expressway (RS 1), which is also quite affordable. We'll enjoy a short stretch of the already beautifully developed RS 1 and get warmed up...

The photo shows Jochen on his gravel bike on the RS 1 in Mülheim an der Ruhr
Warm-up ride on the Ruhr cycle highway

It could be so beautiful… the Ruhr cycle highway

The dedicated cycle highway ends far too quickly, and we continue towards Duisburg, following the planned route to the left and right. We repeatedly glance down at the overgrown railway line with a mixture of envy and wistfulness. We could be gliding along so peacefully there. But the paths alongside it are surprisingly good, even if there are occasional bottlenecks when we encounter oncoming traffic. We finally enter the Duisburg forest, and the gravel bike immediately feels much more at home on the lovely forest trails. A small pond in the Nightingale Valley provides the perfect opportunity for a refreshing break and deep breaths of fresh air amidst the beautiful scenery.

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike in the Duisburg forest.
A little forest adventure in the heart of the Ruhr area

Gravel riding through the Duisburg forests

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike in the Duisburg forest.
The Duisburg forests – a colorful mix of relaxed forest paths and wide forest roads.

We cross the railway tracks through two underpasses and now head south. The forests here are surprisingly large; you can cycle all the way to Düsseldorf through the woods with only a few road crossings. It feels like there are a thousand different routes – from paved lanes to countless forest tracks and even some great trails. Our surface alternates between annoying patchwork of asphalt and beautiful forest paths. We pass trees that have sadly already lost their vitality – climate change is probably at work. I'm no biologist and don't know much about it, but it does look a bit sad.

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike in the Duisburg forest.
Dead trees stand as a warning by the roadside.

Pure country life

A large golf course marks the end of the wooded area. Homemade jam and delicious apple juice are available along the roadside. Paying in a small box is practically a matter of honor – here, the world is still alright. The residential area is on the more upscale side. In Mülheim Selbeck, we drive through a small village center with a large church, followed by riding stables, fields, and pure rural idyll.

The photo shows country delicacies during a gravel tour through the Ruhr area.
Country delicacies right by the roadside

Border Crosser Tour: A little beyond the Ruhr area

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike on the Niederbergbahn railway line near Essen-Kettwig.
Enjoyable cycling along railway lines on the Niederbergbahn railway line near Kettwig

Beyond the A52, we leave the Ruhr area and arrive in Ratingen. The scenery remains unchanged. Fields continue to stretch as far as the eye can see, and there definitely seem to be more horses than cars. Beyond the Hasenbroicher Hof farm, the route becomes a bit more challenging in a wooded area before we roll through Hösel along residential streets. After a steep descent, the Niederbergbahn railway line – a well-maintained cycle path built on a former railway line – leads us into the Bergisches Land region, across a historic-looking viaduct, to Kettwig.

The photo shows an information panel along the Niederbergbahn railway line in Essen-Kettwig.
Information panel along the Niederbergbahn railway line

A truly sporty rollercoaster ride.

The photo shows a beautifully curved landscape in the Ruhr area.
The beautifully undulating landscape is the focus of this tour.

Your calves should be warmed up by now, because things are about to get really sporty. We pedal our way steeply uphill for the first time along the Sengenholzer Weg to Isenbügel. Once at the top, your thighs are burning, and then it's straight downhill again past wide fields. The comparison to the Allgäu region is absolutely apt here. The landscape is beautifully undulating, and either your calves or your fingers on the brake levers are getting a real workout. Before the next climb, you'll be grateful for the wooden bench by the wayside.

The photo shows Jochen in the Oefter Forest in Essen
A little break for the calves in the middle of the forest…

If you dislike inclines, this is definitely the wrong place for you. The next steep ramp on soft ground is coming up, followed by a descent and another long climb – this time on asphalt.

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike in the Oefter Forest in Essen
Beautiful forest trails await you in the Oefter Forest

We enjoy the sweeping panoramic view from the top of the ridge, see the striking A52 motorway bridge spanning the Ruhr Valley far on the horizon, and continue cycling towards Werden. Up, down, up again, and down again – one meter of elevation follows another. Finally, we reach the charming district of Essen-Werden. Anyone wanting to take a short break here should stroll through the beautiful old town or enjoy a delicious ice cream at Kikas ice cream parlor right by the elegant fountain. However, we're drawn directly to the other side of the Ruhr, then a little further on. Ruhr Valley Cycle Path passing the former paper mill lock and the Twelve Apostles restaurant.

The photo shows Jochen at the disused lock chamber of the paper mill lock in Essen-Werden.
The disused lock chamber of the paper mill lock in Essen-Werden

The ostrich farm

We're starting to get hungry and are looking forward to a short break. One last climb up Rutherweg really makes our calves burn, then we reach the ostrich farm. A truly unusual place in the heart of the Ruhr area. The enormous birds can be wonderfully observed from a viewing platform.

Those who want to get some exercise can try footgolf or swinggolf. Or, depending on the current Covid situation, you can simply treat yourself to a delicious ostrich steak or burger at a restaurant (or takeaway if necessary) – highly recommended!

The photo shows an ostrich steak with side dishes from the ostrich farm in Essen.
My culinary tip for this tour: an incredibly delicious ostrich steak

With full stomachs, we unfortunately only manage a short downhill stretch. Then comes the final, serious climb up to Kettwig. The small chapel of Maria im Maien is a wonderfully peaceful place where the soul can find some rest.

The photo shows the pilgrimage chapel Maria im Maien
The pilgrimage chapel Maria im Maien

Then it's back towards Mülheim an der Ruhr. One last time we enjoy the rolling hills above the Ruhr valley, speeding downhill past fields and old farmsteads.

The photo shows Jochen on his gravel bike during a beautiful descent down into the Ruhr valley.
A beautiful descent down into the Ruhr Valley

We drive through the Rohmbachtal and Rossenbecktal nature reserves and pass a great half-timbered house that once housed a village school.

The photo shows Jochen in front of the old Ikten school in Mülheim an der Ruhr.
The old Ikten school

Finally, we reach the Ruhr River and cycle leisurely along the former towpath right by the water to the Menden Bridge. Often the trees tower far above the water, wild geese raise their young along the path, and herons lie in wait for their lunch – the experience of nature is incredibly intense along the Ruhr.

The photo shows Jochen on a gravel bike on the towpath near Mülheim an der Ruhr
The towpath near Mülheim an der Ruhr

We cross the Ruhr river once more, because our next destination is Saarn Monastery with its relaxing herb garden and nice monastery café.

The photo shows Jochen in the herb garden of Sarn Monastery in Mülheim an der Ruhr
Pure relaxation in the herb garden of Sarn Monastery

The final stage

We coast the last few meters along the Ruhr Valley Railway cycle path. We reach the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path and follow it to Müga Park at Broich Castle. A visit to the Camera Obscura would be a cultural highlight of the tour before we cycle back to our starting point via the RS 1 cycle path.

The photo shows Mülheim an der Ruhr
End of the workday in Mülheim an der Ruhr

Conclusion: Lots of elevation gain, unfortunately rather little gravel.

This tour will delight sports enthusiasts and climbing junkies. You don't often find so much elevation gain in such a short distance in the Ruhr area. The constant ups and downs are more strenuous than a steady climb in the Alps. While there aren't many sights along the way, the beautiful landscape is sure to captivate visitors. With the beer gardens along the route finally reopening (check the current COVID-19 regulations), the hike will be even more appealing. The ostrich farm, in particular, offers plenty of indulgent snacks to reward yourself handsomely for all those meters of elevation gain. For me, this short, sporty excursion finds its well-deserved end in my own garden with a delicious Büble wheat beer from the Allgäu region and a very satisfied grin on my face.

The photo shows a glass and a bottle of Allgäuer Büble.
The perfect "finale": an Allgäu lad in the garden…

PS You can find even more gravel routes in our new Komoot collection: www.komoot.de/collection/1133784/-die-laessigsten-graveltouren-im-radrevier-ruhr