What could be better than cycling along the water in summer? The landscape is reflected on the surface, ships awaken a longing to travel, and animals enjoy a refreshing dip. So I set off on a cycling trip along the canals of the northern Ruhr region. From Dortmund, I'll head to Haltern am See – a relaxing 46-kilometer ride along the water.

Coming from Essen, I first take the regional express train to Dortmund Central Station. The service frequency on this route is excellent, and the space for bicycles is adequate, at least outside of rush hour. My bike tour starts at junction 61, right in front of the station. The map shows me the route to the next junction, but I also like to rely on the digital track from komoot on my phone (see info box).

Big city hustle and bustle in the largest city in the Ruhr cycling region.

First, the route goes through Dortmund city center. The cycle paths are wide enough. Dortmund U It appears after just a few pedal strokes, but I'm immediately drawn onward. Through the city traffic, I finally reach Fredenbaumpark, Dortmund's oldest city park, and a little later the Dortmund-Ems CanalFinally, I can leave the hustle and bustle of the big city behind me. Peace and quiet descend immediately, and I switch into vacation mode.

Here in Dortmund, the canal still has an urban character. I cycle along the western bank, past an old port facility, and catch a glimpse of the disused Malakow tower of the Fürst Hardenberg coal mine. After the first bridge, the view changes dramatically; suddenly I'm in the countryside. Wide fields now dominate the landscape. I particularly enjoy the tree-lined avenues that accompany me along the canal for the first few kilometers. Beautiful vistas open up again and again.

The water is surprisingly clear, and I'm amazed at how few ships are traveling on the Dortmund-Ems Canal. It's not very wide anyway, and the same goes for the cycle path alongside it. At times, the path narrows to just two lanes. But I'm still making good progress, and cycling right next to the water is simply a joy. So I continue northwards, all the way to Henrichenburg.

Pure industrial heritage – the Henrichenburg ship lift

It's certainly the highlight of this bike tour. After about a third of the way, the canal branches off into the Henrichenburg Lock Park in Waltrop. A visit to the historic ship lift is definitely worthwhile. A museum explains the history of the waterways in the Ruhr region and also vividly illustrates how a ship lift works, in contrast to a lock. On an old museum ship, you can immerse yourself in the simple and challenging life of a boatman's family around a hundred years ago. The adjacent beer garden offers cool drinks, delicious food, and, of course, the perfect ice cream for hot days.

I continue on my way, taking a small loop through the lock park. You can even cycle through one of the large locks at a leisurely pace. Here in Henrichenburg, the Dortmund-Ems Canal meets the Rhine-Herne Canal, making the marina a popular destination for recreational boats.

Now comes the less pleasant part of the tour. I leave the canal and have to navigate through the city traffic of Datteln to the Wesel-Datteln Canal Breaking through. Although the route follows cycle paths alongside the road, even passing through a charming workers' settlement at one point, this part of the tour is more of a chore. I follow the signs for the Dortmund-Ems Canal Cycle Route. I'm relieved when I finally reach the canal again at the Datteln Sea. On the opposite bank lies the "Alte Fahrt," a disused section of the canal that's perfect for exploring by bicycle.

I'm now heading west. The cycle path along the north bank of the Wesel-Datteln Canal is superbly maintained. It's not paved, but the gravel surface is in excellent condition. It's a very relaxed ride past locks and wide fields. I quickly cover many kilometers and haven't enjoyed cycling this much in a long time.

Ferry crossing over the Lippe

In Flaesheim, this relaxed atmosphere comes to an abrupt end, as suddenly full physical effort is required. The second small highlight awaits: the Maifisch ferry. Here, I have to become the ferryman myself and pull myself, my bike, and the ferry across the Lippe River. Yes, the Lippe is certainly not the widest river in North Rhine-Westphalia at this point, but it is the longest river from its source to its mouth. The short ferry ride is strenuous, but also genuinely fun. Those who aren't comfortable with the challenge can bypass the ferry by using a nearby bridge.

The tour is nearing its end. We're heading back along the road towards Haltern am See. The solitude along the canal (okay, I was there during the week; it's certainly busier on weekends) gives way to the hustle and bustle of the lakeside promenade. I can imagine how crowded it gets on a hot summer weekend, but the lake is simply beautiful. So, if the weather's good, don't forget your swimsuit.

My journey continues to the center of Haltern am See. I had no idea Haltern was so beautiful. A wonderful town center with historic houses and, above all, really lovely street cafés welcomes me at the end of this bike tour – the perfect end to a short cycling trip. From here, it's just a short walk to the nearby train station and then back to Essen on the regional express train.

And finally, a few tips

The entire bike tour along the canals is very easy. There's practically no elevation gain. The surface is often compacted gravel, and the amount of asphalt outside of towns is rather small. On a nice day, this tour makes for a wonderful holiday. The route along the canals is also ideal for families. However, the inner-city bike paths in Dortmund, and even more so in Datteln, can be a bit challenging for younger children. Don't forget your swimwear for the Haltern Reservoir and also pack some food and drinks, as there are only a few places to stop for refreshments along the canals. I highly recommend this 46-kilometer bike tour from Dortmund to Haltern am See, so have fun cycling!