In recent years, Essen has been operating under the brand “FOOD.Experience“A multitude of local cycling routes have been developed, guiding cyclists either along specific themes or as bike-friendly axes through the city. There's a coal mine tour, two church tours, and even two beer garden tours. For us cyclists, the north-south connections are particularly interesting as transport routes, since these are traditionally rather scarce in the Ruhr area. I've picked out the nature route and the water route and combined these two axes with the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path in the south and the Rhine-Herne Canal Cycle Path in the north to create a roughly 60-kilometer day trip for cyclists. Let's see what Essen's "New Paths to Water" have to offer…”

Essen.Experience – A 60-kilometer day trip around Essen

My tour starts at the S-Bahn station in Essen-Werden, in the far south, which is easily accessible via the S6 line. Alternatively, especially for drivers, the tour can also be started from the Zollverein UNESCO World Heritage Site. This would also be advantageous for those without their own bike, as they could easily join the tour at the station. RevierRad station You could rent a bike. With an elevation gain of 380 meters, a rental e-bike might also be worthwhile.

Cycling on the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path

First, I orient myself by the fully signposted route. Ruhr Valley Cycle PathI travel upstream from Essen-Werden towards Lake Baldeney. Shortly before the weir, I already see a relic of the region's industrial history. The Neukirchen lock was once an important component of shipping on the Ruhr River, when it was the busiest river in Europe. It was built in 1777/78. Today, it lies rather neglected by the wayside.

At Lake Baldeney, I continue upstream. On the opposite bank, I see Villa Hügel, half-hidden in the woods. Ducks and swans bathe in this small natural paradise, while rowers energetically glide across the water. I'm out early in the morning because it gets quite crowded here in the afternoons and on weekends. At this time of day, only a few athletes are out for a spin – cycling, inline skating, running, or walking.

Beyond Lake Baldeney, I cross to the other side and continue following the signposted Ruhr Valley Cycle Path. The path leads me through the Ruhr meadows until just before Essen-Steele. The Essen Nature Route starts directly in front of the Finca & Bar Celona.

The Nature Route

It will take me the next 15 kilometers by bike from the Ruhr River to the Rhine-Herne Canal. A "nature" route right in the middle of a major city—that sounds unusual. Of course, the route doesn't only lead through nature reserves, and I do occasionally cycle on roads and through residential areas. But especially those unfamiliar with the area will be surprised at how close to nature one can experience traversing the city of Essen. Even the start of the nature route is fantastic. It leads gently uphill through a valley. It feels like I've only just set off, and now I'm already standing in front of the noise barrier along the A52 motorway. That was quick.

I cycle through a residential area, then the road winds up a tight spiral to a bridge that takes me over the A40 motorway. A bit more city traffic, and then I encounter a major construction site on Elisenstraße (August 2020). While it's possible to cycle on the road, you shouldn't miss the right moment to turn right onto the sidewalk before the construction barriers. Because immediately after the railway underpass, we need to turn right onto the cycle path along the Stoppenberger Bach stream. Unfortunately, the construction makes this a bit bumpy at the moment.

Panoramic view of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Zollverein

It becomes greener again and noticeably more relaxed. I follow the signs for the nature route, go around a small slag heap, then it gets briefly more challenging. The path leads up into Am-Hallo-Park.

But the effort is worthwhile, because I'm rewarded with a magnificent view over Zollverein and the northern Ruhr region – simply wonderful. I've never really understood the gray concrete monuments of the green capital, but the view from the Rungenberg spoil tip (far right) across the UNESCO World Heritage Site Zollverein, the Oberscholven spoil tip, and the somewhat less conspicuous Brauker Alpen in Gladbeck, then the Tetraeder and, on the far left, the Haniel spoil tip in Bottrop, is quite lovely.

Via Zollverein to Nordsternweg

The descent leads through the small park, then I'm already driving through the Zollverein UNESCO World Heritage Site. We quickly reach the [unclear text] via another park. North Star Walk, which, as a well-developed railway cycle path, quickly takes us north to the Rhine-Herne Canal. The Nature Route actually continues a little further north. However, since the Rhine-Herne Canal is a good east-west connection, I'm using this shortcut.

Rhine-Herne Canal and Emscher Trail

I turn off immediately after the Emscher River. At the black carbon obelisk, I return to the canal, then it's a relaxing ride along the water. The Essen harbor has to be bypassed somewhat, so the tour also leads through a bit of Bottrop.

Under the A42 motorway, I pass an art installation of grazing sheep, and a little later Berne Park seems like a good place for a lunch break. Unfortunately, it's closed until August 20th, which is annoying for me, because the currywurst there is really delicious.

The Water Route

Back at the Rhine-Herne Canal, I can already see the start of the Water Route on the other side. Crossing the next bridge, I continue over Essener Straße, then turn right at the swimming pool back to the canal and the start of the Water Route. It, too, is well signposted and additionally marked with ground markings. For a good 20 kilometers, I cycle primarily south to the Ruhr River. However, since there is currently a lot of work being done on the small sewage canals, there are quite a few detours. Generally speaking, though, the Water Route also leads through Essen mostly away from road traffic.

The Rhenish Railway and Grugatrasse

Immediately behind the Finca & Bar Celona in Borbeck, I reach the Rheinische Bahn, the future RS 1. The Water Route quickly turns left. However, since there are also several construction sites on this section, and I was even directed into a community garden area, I currently (as of August 2020) recommend taking the other route. Rhenish railway continue to junction 1 and then directly onto the Grugatrasse to switch. We do miss out on a few paths along waterways, but it's definitely a much more relaxed way to cycle.

The Grugatrasse trail leads me uphill over a water-bound surface to just before Margarethenhöhe. Then I turn right into the Kesselbach valley. The path now climbs through beautiful countryside, and I pass the Halbachhammer. Although the Fickynhütte ironworks originally came from the Siegerland region, it was brought to Essen by Gustav Krupp von Bohlen und Halbach in 1915. Today, demonstrations of the hammer mill's operation are occasionally held; it is run as a branch of the Ruhr Museum.

With plenty of momentum into the Ruhr Valley

After the A52, the Water Route briefly takes me through Bredeney; the highest point of the tour is finally reached. The route continues for a short distance along Meisenburger Straße, then I turn off at the weather station into the Ruhr Valley under unfortunately increasingly gloomy clouds.

The descent is steep, but I have to take one last detour around construction sites. Passing the ostrich farm, the detour nevertheless leads me into the Ruhr Valley to the Zwölf Apostel restaurant. The meadow is full of deck chairs, and the parking lot is packed. The Water Route ends here, right on the Ruhr River. I cycle the last few meters back along the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path to the train station in Essen-Werden. Just before Werden, the Papiermühlen Lock is a charmingly wild and picturesque sight to my right.

Cycling around Essen – Conclusion

A great circular route, though unfortunately with quite a few construction sites at the moment. Nevertheless, the tour is still highly recommended, as it offers a unique perspective on the city, and most of the construction is related to the Emscher River restoration project and its tributaries – thus perfectly embodying the theme of the Water Route. The route also includes the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an absolute highlight of industrial culture. So, why not give it a try and hop on your bike!