Last Sunday I finally got to cycle the Emscher Trail. It had been on my bucket list for ages: "What I still need to experience by bike in the Ruhr area." From its source in Holzwickede, the cycle path follows the Emscher River more or less to its confluence with the Rhine near Dinslaken. The roughly 100 kilometers can easily be covered in a day by sporty cyclists. Those who prefer a more relaxed pace can, of course, cycle for two or even three days. You'll find suitable accommodation tips in the information box below.

Cycling alongside the Emscher river – things to consider beforehand

The Emscher Trail is definitely one of the most important long-distance cycling routes in the Ruhr region, and I can already say: it's absolutely worth it! It leads right through the heart of the Ruhr area, and if you have a little time, you can see quite a bit along the way. But there are a few things you should be aware of beforehand: the Emscher River is still largely a sewage canal. If you have a sensitive nose or stomach, the lower section is probably not the best choice at the moment. The Emscher's transformation (see the section below) is still in full swing. If you want to experience the full Emscher aroma, cycle on a hot 30-degree day, like I did. However, if you're a bit more savvy, choose a cooler day, when the Emscher doesn't smell quite so strong.

Furthermore, the Emscher Trail largely follows the Emschergenossenschaft's (Emscher Cooperative's) service roads. Where heavy machinery is in operation, smooth asphalt is a rare find for cyclists. However, I find the gravel paths fantastic and enjoy riding them immensely. Narrow road bike tires, however, won't be suitable. Additionally, there's constant construction along the Emscher River. Roadworks and detours are therefore a daily occurrence. Thorough preparation and appropriate analog or digital maps are therefore highly recommended. Those who rely solely on the signage will struggle.

Arrival: by train to Holzwickede

Traveling by train is really easy. I took the regional train from Essen to Dortmund and then on to Holzwickede. This Sunday, I even had completely empty bicycle compartments – it couldn't be more convenient. The tour starts right at the train station. Node 45.

First stop is the Emscherquellhof, a beautiful half-timbered house with a pond. This is where the Emscher River begins its journey through the Ruhr region, and where my bike tour on the Emscher Trail also starts!

After just a few meters I pass a small Industrial Culture-Idyllic. The Margarethe ventilation shaft lies by the roadside. Nothing grand, but rather small and unassuming. But these are exactly the kinds of places I love in the Ruhr area.

On the way to Phoenix Lake in Dortmund

At the beginning of the tour, I see very little of the Emscher River. The route leads mostly through fields and residential areas. Although the Emscher grows larger on the way to Dortmund, it's hidden under a thick layer of green leaves when you pass it.

It's only at Phoenix Lake in Dortmund that it really reappears. I walk around the lake on its northern shore. It's quite busy here, so I slow down. An information panel explains how the lake was formed.

Since I'm already on the road after the long journey, I'm going to treat myself to a proper currywurst at "Wurst mit Soße" as a snack for the road.

The Emscher Trail along the renaturalized Emscher river

From Phoenix Lake, the Emscher Trail leads westwards along beautiful cycle paths past the former Phoenix West steelworks, Westfalenpark, and later the BVB football stadium. After a considerable climb, the trail runs directly alongside the Emscher River for several kilometers. This section has already been beautifully renaturalized. Now, at the end of August, goldenrod blooms a glorious yellow all along the path, making cycling a real pleasure.

Shortly after the Deusenberg spoil heap at the Hansa coking plant, I have to take my first detour around a construction site. But the alternative route across the fields is also beautiful and well signposted. Back at the Emscher River, there's now a section where you can really cover some ground. On clean, relatively fine gravel, I feel like I'm flying westward. Of course, you can find places to stop for a break here too, but I just want to make some progress.

A brief digression: the Emscher

The Emscher River restoration project is currently Europe's largest renaturalization project. Around €5,38 billion is being invested to transform the Emscher back into a natural river. The lower reaches are still a canal, and the water isn't exactly clean. In contrast, the upper reaches of the Emscher already boast a beautiful, green splendor. Incidentally, the Emscher's mouth has had to be relocated several times. Originally, it flowed into the Rhine at Duisburg, but subsidence caused by coal mining necessitated moving the mouth to the lower-lying town of Dinslaken.

For me, the Emscher is a symbol of the Ruhr region. Unassuming and completely underestimated by many, it was and still is the workhorse among the rivers of the Ruhr. While the Ruhr in the south was a popular destination for day trips early in the last century, the Emscher was nicknamed "the sewer." Yet, economic development would have been unthinkable without the Emscher. It therefore deserves the real credit, and I am glad that it is finally regaining a natural appearance. The further the renaturalization of the Emscher progresses, the more interesting the Emscher Trail will become for cyclists.

When the river becomes a canal

In Herne, I notice the typical Emscher smell for the first time. The river has changed; what was just a gentle babble now flows increasingly slowly and, unfortunately, noticeably dirtier. Cycling, on the other hand, continues to go well. Until I reach the City harbor in Recklinghausen I stopped in shock. A fervent scream had startled me deeply. I looked up; a mobile bungee tower right by the water was apparently the cause of the scream. A beaming woman was hanging upside down from the rope beneath the crane. Well, those who prefer something more comfortable can find more relaxing break options here at the beach or at the Recklinghausen substation.

I continue my journey by bike along the Emscher Trail. The landscape becomes more urban again, and another construction detour leads me along smaller streets. Back at the Emscher River, I reach Gelsenkirchen, and the Schalke Arena is clearly visible.

Along the Rhine-Herne Canal to Oberhausen

The Emscher Trail now follows the shipping canal for a while. Teenagers swim in the cool water, and in Nordsternpark, I briefly dip my burning feet into the water of a lovely water playground. Later, along the path, I pass the large Bottrop wastewater treatment plant. After all, the Emscher water is supposed to be cleanly discharged into the Rhine a little later in Dinslaken.

As a pleasant stopover, I can recommend BernePark in Bottrop, which has a nice restaurant. The former sewage treatment plant was transformed into a park during the RUHR.2010 European Capital of Culture year. The Parkhotel Bernepark is certainly one of the... most unusual places to stay in the Ruhr area.

Shortly after the Oberhausen Gasometer, the Emscher Trail branches off to the north. In the Oberhausen district of Biefang, a large construction detour follows, which was only partially signposted and runs along major roads. Since the entire section wasn't very scenic, I recommend taking the longer detour via the HOAG railway line (starting at the bridge from Grüner Pfad at junction 13).

The final stretch to the Rhine

The final kilometers then run largely along the Emscher embankment. The renaturalization project will noticeably change this area one day, but for now, the dark water flows slowly in the canal bed. Right at its mouth, the Emscher plunges into the Rhine with a small, unspectacular waterfall.

My journey ends right here at junction 4. I gaze at a beautiful sunset and realize that while the Emscher Trail is doable in a day, you really feel every kilometer in your bones. But it was a wonderful bike ride that I would gladly recommend.
As always, I wish you lots of fun on your bike ride. The Emscher Trail awaits you!